Issue 13 - Civil War / Victorian Collaboration Portrait of an April Day by Sarah's Sewing Room
- BbeautyDesigns
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
I present to you today “Portrait of an April Day,” a gown of crisp sky-blue and cloud-white plaid cotton shirting with a full set each of underpinnings and jewelry. As I walk you through the details of the ensemble, I’d like to give some insights on how I sewed the gown and dressed my doll. I hope these tips will help you make your own gown and/or dress your doll in her historical garments!
The foundations of this gown are the BBeauty Designs Civil War Undergarments and Victorian Button Boots. The off-the-shoulder chemise comes first. I love how lightweight it is, and the period-accurate silhouette is accented by a sweet neckline of lace!
Next come the boots, in the Cream color for this ensemble. The back-lacing corset with four decorative hooks and eyes mimicking a corset busk then goes over the chemise.
Once the corset has been laced, we can begin to don the ruffled petticoat and hoop skirt. While historically a lady would start with her hoop skirt, I found it easiest to put on the petticoat first, then pull it up and out of the way so I could tie on the hoop skirt. I tied the hoop at the doll’s side, with the waistband above the bottom hook and eye at the front and over top of the corset bow at the back. This helps keep the skirt from slipping down. I tucked the bow into the skirt opening to reduce bulk, then repeated this process with the ruffled petticoat (but instead tying this at the back).
The gown’s skirt is put on next. I made sure that the waist opening of the gown’s skirt would be large enough to slip over the doll’s head. It has a wide waistband to keep it in place and closes in the back with a skirt-style hook and eye. To make the skirt, I cut a roughly 55” by 13” rectangle, which I gathered into the waistband after I applied the ruffle. The ruffle is topped by a bias band and fringed trim, giving just the right amount of contrast to a field of plaid. Once hemmed, the base of the skirt is 11” long, not including the waistband, then the ruffle adds an additional 1/2” for a total of 11.5” in skirt length.
The bodice was such a delight to sew! I used the “Amy 1860s Ballgown” bodice by Pemberley Threads. It should be noted that the corset does add a bit of bulk to the doll’s torso, however I found it necessary to add only 1/4” to each center back edge of the Amy bodice pattern. The additional 1/2” is just the right amount of ease while maintaining a snug fit. I wanted to give the option to wear the bodice on its own without the collar, so I trimmed the neckline and sleeves with a white floral lace for a little extra detail. The bodice closes in the back with three snaps, and I added tiny white buttons as decoration.
The Bertha collar unites the bodice and skirt by using both the floral and the fringed trim. Three silk satin ribbon bows adorn the center front and shoulders of the collar, and it closes in the back with snaps and three decorative pearl-and-gold buttons.
The final accessories to this gown are a shawl and another set of jewels by the talented Sata of Sata & Haykush Designs. I found the shawl, which is really a vintage lace mantilla, at an antique mall in northern Michigan a couple weekends ago. It’s a great size for a doll! Sata’s jewels are the perfect accompaniment to complete the look. I was so excited when she showed me photos of this set — it was exactly what I had in mind! Bright sapphire-blue stones are interspersed between three rows of pearls for the collar-like necklace. The earring drops and bracelet perfectly matched, and the most beautiful handcrafted headband crowns the doll’s hair.
I must say, this gown was a challenge to sew. Not because of its difficulty, but because there are just so many different ways to trim it that I had a hard time deciding!
As I was combing through my stash of lace, playing with ribbons, and perusing my buttons and beads, I found myself sending photos to Ava, Heather, and Sata to see what they thought.
One of my favorite parts of this collaboration has been growing my relationships with these lovely ladies, bouncing around ideas and gathering their opinions. Even the name of this gown, “Portrait of an April Day,” was decided upon between the four of us. Truly a collaboration, not only in physical items, but in creativity and inspiration as well!
This ensemble, which will include the outfit and accessories pictured above, will be listed in my Etsy shop on Thursday, April 23 at 8pm EST.
How to find me:
Instagram: @sarahtafelsky
PS: Keep an eye out on my Instagram profile and Etsy shop, as in the coming months I will be releasing my first sewing pattern!