Issue 18 - Civil War / Victorian Collaboration The Grand Finale Amy Grand Ballgown

In keeping with my largely purple theme this collection (with the exception of the one blue and white piece) the grand finale piece is based on the "Amy" Pattern from Pemberly Threads but made into a grand ballgown.  I was very inspired to do a ballgown in a very regal eggplant purple.  This tone is a blue purple rather than a red purple.  It was difficult to capture the exact color on camera as it adjusts to the greenery, but it is in fact a very deep purple.

I first worked on the design of the skirt.  I expanded the pattern out to be a full 60" width and an extra 1" in length from what the pattern originally called for.  With taffeta since it is very light and airy, this extra length made it easy to gather without having to cram a bunch of fabric into the waistband, but also give the look of being full. A full Bbeauty Doll's undergarment set is underneath this dress to give the grand ball gown look including chemise, petticoat, hoop, and corset.

I found a vine and leaf trim in a beautiful sage green which I felt paired well with tiny embroidered flower clusters in a marigold color tone.  I have always enjoyed the combination of purple and gold together so having a flower in a yellow/gold tone was exactly what I was shooting for.  When the skirt was flat (before gathering into the waistband), I started a border using the vine leaf trim in a wave pattern that I measured and marked all the way across the skirt.  I then stitched along the vine in green thread and then handstitched embroidered flower clusters every 3" to create the pattern.  Then I went back and glued down all the leaf edges so they laid flat on the fabric and didn't poke out.

I worked on the Bertha collar next.  I found these fun brooches which are actually buttons with pearl and rhinestone frame and then the portrait of a girl in the center.  Then I edged the bertha collar on both edges with lace.  You can't see in the photos because of the hair, but on the sides of the arms at the seam I hand sewed flower clusters like on the hem to decorate the shoulders and tie everything together.

Without the Bertha Collar, we get a much clearer view of the dress in a more modern approach but also we get to see the fabulous jewelry made by Sata & Haykush Designs.  Sata designed a beautiful crystal and pearl necklace accenting the deep purples and a matching drop earring.  I pierced the doll's ears to accommodate a silver post.  Sata also made the pearl headband with dark purple brooch that sits on top of the doll's head. You can purchase the necklace and earrings as a set in Sata's store here.

The bodice has boning along the center front which I used a spiral steel bone as well as on the side seams.  The bodice is self lined and stitched beautifully with a bias edge at the bottom.  The entire bodice and skirt snap in the back.

The off the shoulder sleeves on this design are almost like cap sleeves with small bands at the ends.  From this pattern I enjoy very much the seamlines at the center front and the curvature of the bodice.  To accommodate the corset, I added 1/4" to the center back pattern piece (which added a total of 1/2" when both pieces are cut) to accommodate room for the full set of undergarments.

Among the accessories on this dress, a pair of short white fingered gloves are included with stitching at the finger and over the hand.  The white gloves balance with the lace on the bertha collar to draw the eye up towards the face against the dark color of the ballgown.  In addition, she is wearing socks and bloomers under the dress as well as black Victorian boots.  I choose black instead of white for the same reason.  I wanted the focus to be at the very top of the dress where the white draws the eye.

The Cecile Wig has been mostly available in Dark Brown for this time period and also has been a favorite to use when making very fancy doll customs because of the sheer amount of ringlet curls it contains.  It's very full and very dramatic.  We originally made it in just dark brown as a replacement for the Cecile doll, but I have personally loved this wig so much I have created a few color tones and plan to release more over the years to add color options.

I very specifically wanted to release a new color for this collection and decided to go with Cecile in Gingersnap.  Cecile sells out quickly, but it is my plan to have more in before Christmas time this year as it just makes absolutely elegant and beautiful dolls for under the Christmas tree!

The beautiful face-up on this doll was done by Lisa Minca with beautiful green eyes, hand painted brows, additional handpainted lashes, freckles under the eyes and on the cheeks, and natural glossy lips.

This doll will be sold as it's own collection by auction on eBay:

Amy Grand Ballgown Set will include: 

• American Girl Doll Model fully customized and hand painted with green eyes and pierced ears and the Cecile Gingersnap wig

• Amy Civil War Dress with removable bertha collar (2 pieces)

• A full 4-piece undergarment set including hoop, chemise, corset, and ruffled petticoat 

• Earring, Headband, necklace, and pearl bracelet set by Sata & Haykush Designs

• Black Victorian Boots

• Bloomers and long length socks

• Short white fingered gloves

Note: Winners from the photo contest will be announced tomorrow as our members are still reviewing the entries and making final decisions.

TO PURCHASE THE AMY GRAND BALLGOWN SET AS SHOWN:

Doll in her full collection and set can be purchased on Ebay for auction here