Issue 9 - Civil War / Victorian Collaboration The Victorian Primrose Gown by A Stitch in Time's Line

The Victorian Primrose Gown

By A Stitch in Time's Line

Hello Bbeauty readers!  This is Ava from A Stitch in Time's Line.  I'm delighted to be back for another collaboration with Bbeauty Dolls, joined this time by Satenik Donaca of Sata & Haykush Designs and Sara Tafelsky.

Firstly I'd like to say how glad I am that Heather has decided to pursue the production of authentic historical accessories for 18-inch dolls, useful for creators of handmade items and collectors alike in putting the finishing touches on their doll's outfits.  As American Girl has gradually shifted its focus away from historical clothing and accessories, it makes me happy to see that tradition carried forward in such a thoughtful way.

My first dress for this collaboration was inspired by a Pinterest image of a yellow gown worn by an antique 10" German bisque doll.  The springtime look of the antique dress, trimmed with colorful rosettes, made it feel perfect for an April release.

To give this dress the period appropriate structure and shape, I used three pieces from Bbeauty's Civil War Historical Undergarments Set.  So let's begin with some photos of the underthings!

First comes the Bbeauty chemise.  I love the wide neckline and detailed yoke.  

Next come a pair of the Victorian Button Boots in Cream, as it was much easier for a Victorian lady to button her boots up before putting on her corset and layers of skirts.

Next I put the ballgown style hoop skirt on Caroline.  Tying the drawstring waistband off to one side helps reduce bulk at the center back.  

While the hoops are adjustable within the boning channels, allowing the hoop to be expanded or shrunk down slightly, there is no question that this hoop skirt is designed for drama!  With the circumference of the bottom edge at thirty-five-inches, I found an overskirt width of forty-five or more inches necessary to accommodate it.

The corset is my favorite piece from the Civil War Undergarments set!  Although it would traditionally be worn under the hoop to support and distribute the weight of layered skirts, I opted to reverse the order and use the corset to smooth over the hoop waistband.  

All the items I have discussed so far can be found on Bbeauty's website in the Civil War Collection section: https://www.bbeautydolls.com/18-inch-doll-civil-war-collection. 

For this specific ensemble, I wanted a petticoat to smooth out the lines of the hoop skirt without adding extra volume, so I made a simple gathered petticoat with a drawstring waistband, trimmed with crochet cotton lace.

With the goal of keeping my materials as authentic to the period as possible, I sourced a half yard of ivory cotton bobbinet - a fine, soft net popular in the Victorian era, quite different from modern day nylon tulle.  No longer widely produced, cotton bobbinet now sells for around $80 per yard, so you can imagine my nervousness as I first dyed it to match my yellow silk and then cut out the pieces.  In the end, I used every last scrap of the bobbinet.  While I soon realized I didn't have enough to recreate all the skirt details of the antique gown, it was satisfying to know I had made the most of my precious material.  After all, a Victorian dressmaker would have taken the same care to avoid waste, when fabric was generally much more highly valued than it is today.

The gown is trimmed with ribbon rosettes, hand-sewed in bunches of three and attached to green ribbon accents.

The lovely jewelry Caroline is wearing was custom-made by Sata & Haykush Designs.  Satenik generously offered to create handmade jewelry sets to pair with each outfit in this collaboration.  I could not be more grateful or pleased with how these pieces turned out!

This ensemble will be available in my Etsy shop on Saturday, April 18th at 7PM Eastern Standard Time.  It includes the boots, chemise, crinoline, corset, petticoat, gown, sash, earring drops, necklace, and bracelet.

How to find me:

Etsy: www.astitchintimesline.etsy.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/astitchintimesline

Instagram: www.instagram.com/astitchintimesline